Chingford: From fields and forest to Royals and the railway - a guided walk by Joanna Moncrieff

A few weeks ago, I went for a guided walk around Chingford, nothing unusual there – I have lived there for over 50 years – but what was unusual was to discover some places and paths I knew nothing about.

Joanna Moncrieff, a Westminster and also Clerkenwell and Islington Guide might be a bit out of her turf here, but Chingford really IS her turf as like myself she has lived here for a great number of years. Chingford is in Waltham Forest, a London Borough and not in Essex as some people still believe although it does at times feel like you are in the country.

We meet at Chingford Station wearing several layers of clothing, this was mid-October and none of us really believed the forecast – sunshine and 20 degree temperatures!

After hearing about the history of Chingford from its beginnings as a hamlet we crossed the road, getting our first glimpse of Epping Forest in all its glory and taking a longer look at Chingford Station. This is now an Overground station but was built in the 1870s. Joanna told us the part it played in the history of Epping Forest and its Royal connections (no spoilers here). She also showed us a tithe map from 1838 which detailed all the fields, paths, and roads that made up Chingford. This would become significant later in the walk and was referred to often.

We then left the main shopping street, Station Road and headed into the suburb proper looking at the different types of speculative building that happened after the railway came to town.  Large villas with lots of whimsical detail were the norm, sadly most of these are now converted into flats.

Back on Station Road, we looked at the impressive church and one or two of the local pubs, hearing tales of famous people who have made Chingford their home. I do mean famous, not infamous although we have had a few of those as well.

As an added extra to the walk on the Saturday I went along we were able to spend some time at Pimp Hall Dovecote where there was an Apple Day celebration. The recently refurbished 17th-century dovecote is beautiful and with the blue sky and warmth, we spent time looking at the stalls and eating a cream tea. By now most of us were down to t-shirts and sat down for a few minutes to enjoy the setting and the warm sunshine.

We left the Apple Day celebrations and made our way across a woodland path and over some open space to see one of the ancient Manors of Chingford.

Up until this point, I knew all the places that Jo spoke of but not always their history and relevance, but now we took uncharted territory for me, in Chingford, somewhere I know like the back of my hand. The tithe map reappeared, and Jo showed us a network of paths which we were able to follow through the modern day streets. These took us past an important sporting space I was unaware of and also led us back into the forest.

The walk finished in Epping Forest at one of Chingford’s most famous buildings, The Queen Elizabeth Hunting Lodge. It is an impressive building but unfortunately on the day that we visited it was covered in scaffolding. The walk was over and all that was left was a 10-minute walk back to the station.

This is a lovely walk and is well worth booking and it has its next outing on the 17^th November, tickets can be booked here. 

Leigh Stanford

East London of Foot guide

A Friday ramble Farringdon to Holland Park

It is hard to believe that yesterday was such a gorgeous spring day as I look out of the window and snow is falling. I had decided yesterday morning that I would walk some or all of the way back to Ealing after I finished work around 2pm. The map app said it was 9 miles which I thought was a bit ambitious but I thought Cowcross Street to Holland Park seemed a better option coming in at just under 5 miles.

A few minutes from the start in Clerkenwell I visited the beautiful St. Peter's Italian Church and saw a clock on the side of a building that I hadn't seen before.

St Peter's Italian Church

                                                

I realised at this point that my walk would take a bit longer than I'd planned as I was seeing so many interesting things along the way. After Clerkenwell Road came Theobalds Road where the Holborn Library and Local Studies and Archive are situated and then on to New Oxford Street.

Holborn Library

Kingsway tram tunnel

I decided not to follow the route the app was showing as I really do not like walking down Oxford Street. The crowds can be avoided though by walking along the streets to the back of the shops where it feels as if you are in a different place.

This entranceway intrigued me as it had the most beautiful green tiling. It was Rathbone Square a newish (2015) public space which if you look at the linked web page should be bustling with people on a lovely Friday afternoon. The reality was slightly different as aside from the security guard and a few people walking through the garden was empty and the promised shops, restaurants and bars are sadly not there.

I glimpsed the Sanderson Hotel, formerly Sanderson House on Berner Street and remembered seeing some pictures of beautiful John Piper stained glass on a stairwell. I've not been in the Sanderson before but managed to find the glass behind a curtain in the lobby. It is absolutely gorgeous although I would have preferred seeing it in 1960 when it was on more prominent display in the wallpaper showroom.

                                   

The architectural history of Britain is depicted in 15 Portland stone sculptures on the side of Henrietta House in Henrietta Place. Designed by Christopher Haddon in 1990 the offices are now occupied by CBRE.

A gorgeous but rather sad sight was the Welbeck Street car park which is likely to be demolished to make way for a 10-storey hotel. There has been an online petition and alternative plans submitted to adapt the car park to use as a hotel but sadly it looks like this brutalist gem will be lost.

A bit further along the back roads of Oxford Street is Edwards Mews where there is a discreet rear entrance to Selfridges and also their car park. In the foyer was a sculpture called Carmen Miranda by Joana Vasconcelos. Something to think about before you throw out any pots and pans!

Just along the way in Edwards Mews there were some more Selfridges buildings which looked like they had been built in the 1960s. The tiling was lovely and I am pretty sure that I remember the logo that you can see on the wall from their carrier bags.

After Marble Arch I began walking along Bayswater Road which was the busiest and noisiest stretch of road that I walked along - I looked at a few things on the side roads as well. There were some blocks of flats that caught my eye, a convent, a synagogue, a sculpture or two as well as some delightful houses.

On the final leg from Notting Hill Gate to Holland Park I saw a ghost sign and a crest and Ruth Rendell's house in Holland Park. Three hours and almost 8 miles of walking later I arrived at Holland Park station. It was a lovely walk no doubt helped by the mild weather we had but it does make you realise how small London really is. From Farringdon in the east to Holland Park in the west could be walked in just over an hour and a half if I'd stuck to the route but with sightseeing it obviously took a little longer. Next time I'll finish in Ealing.